Alpine Rock Routes

Trad Climbing

Temple Buttress

From Temple Basin ski field, follow the rope tow to join the sidle track that goes to Page Shelter. Cross the scree to the foot of the obvious buttresses under Mt Temple. Routes are not marked, but generally follow disjointed lines of weakness and areas of ‘good’ rock. Anchors and protection are sparse. Descend from Mt Temple by the narrow scree shoot then broad gully to the left of the buttresses, or back down along the ridge to Temple Col.

Left-hand Buttress

This triangular shaped rock tower conceals some of the most desperate routes and moves, with the first two pitched on bombproof rock. Take plenty of 2-inch camming devices.

Central Buttress

Overall rock grade is 8-12, increasing the higher you get. The final pitch begins with the overhang (grade 14) crux, avoidable by moving left (true right). Above the pitch, dig your way through shingle towards the rock spike near the summit.

Murray Cullen, Doug Warren, 6 August 1972

Right-hand Buttress

Deteriorates into rotten, loose rock on second, third and fourth pitches, requiring navigational work near the top. Be aware of loose stratum and hanging scree shoots. 

Phipps Peak (1965m) 

South Ridge Slabs - "CFS - Chronic Freezing Syndrome" 140m Grade 14/15 (summer route)

Start in the gully between the two slabs and scramble up the low angle terrain tending right for about 45 m until reaching a small gravel ledge. Pitch up the center of the face. First pitch grade 10 - 12 on solid rock with limited gear. Second pitch tend left following a large crack. At the end of the crack traverse briefly left to the arete to avoid loose rock. Head up the arete to the base of a loose gully with a small roof to your right. Pop onto the roof (crux, grade 14/15) and summit. Good quality, solid rock (for Arthurs Pass) the whole route. Summit Mt Temple then descend via the normal descent route (6.14).

Note: We used a single rack of nuts, tri-cams and cams (000 - 3 camalots). An extra one or two #3 camalots (or equivalent) would have been nice to protect the long crack on pitch 2.

Terra Dumont & Matt Hanson, 26 April 2014South Ridge - "The Lost Line"